Sacred Rites on Merapi: Central Java, Indonesia

By Wombat | May 19th, 2006 | No Comments

Despite the threat of an eruption from smouldering Mt. Merapi, believers in its mystical powers are performing a ritual at a hallowed site on its slopes. Tarko Sudiarno and Hyginus Hardoyo are in Sleman, Yogyakarta.

They are following in the venerable footsteps of Mbah Marijan, the volcano’s spiritual guardian who has refused to leave the area.

At least nine people gathered at Sri Manganti, one of the sacred spots lying about three kilometers from the mount’s crater, for three days of prayers that began Wednesday.

Five of them are from Songgo Buwono supernatural institution in Bantul, which is led by Bunda Lia Hermin Putri. The others included visitors from Demak, Central Java.

Lia said she wanted to conduct the ritual to provide moral support to Mbah (grandfather) Marijan, who traveled to the spot one day earlier to contemplate the situation amid criticism from some officials of his refusal to leave.

The site, perched on a steep slope, has a large permanent gate and altar made of stones. There also is a permanent building capable of accommodating up to four people.

Marijan had prayed for God’s protection for locals from the increased volcanic activities, with Merapi now on its highest alert status. He dismissed thoughts of eruptions, instead considering Merapi’s rumbling to be an ordinary phenomenon.

It is not a case of resisting orders to evacuate, he said. “I just conduct my duties as Merapi’s spiritual guardian,” he said.

“If I evacuate to a safer area, what will people call me — a coward, betrayer.”

With Marijan insisting on staying in his village of Kinahrejo in Cangkrinang district, Sleman, lying about six kilometers from the crater, most of the 70 heads of families also have remained.

After the volcano spewed a massive cloud of hot ash Monday, a handful of them, particularly children and the elderly, did leave. But the rest appear unfazed by the village lying in the red zone — the most dangerous area in the event of an eruption — and consider the volcanic activity to be nothing extraordinary.

Some officials have been irked by Marijan’s stubborn refusal to evacuate, with repeated attempts by police officers failing to sway him.

His decision to go up the slopes was taken just moments before the visit of President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono to Sleman on Tuesday.

A four-member team from the mobile brigade had been deployed to escort Marijan from his “hiding place” at Sri Manganti but to no avail. The four returned empty handed.

On Wednesday, several police officers were still guarding Marijan’s house as they attempted to gather information on his whereabouts.

Lia said she sought permission from Yudhoyono to visit Marijan, with an SMS to the leader facilitated by Zannuba Arifah Chafsoh Rahman, one of former president Abdurrahman Wahid’s daughters.

“The first SMS said ‘Yes. When?” Lia said. “The second was ‘OK. Be careful.”

Lia believes Merapi’s heightened activity is a warning to the public.

“In the case of Merapi, and also other natural disasters throughout the country, we can see that nature has been overexploited.”

She said it was “taboo” for people to speculate on when Merapi would erupt.

“Therefore, it’s better for us to pray together, asking for forgiveness and to be distanced from His anger. It’s from His hands that all certainty come.”

Tarko Sudiarno and Hyginus Hardoyo